Ragoûts de Boeuf
Of the several types of beef stew in which the meat is browned, then simmered in an aromatic liquid, boeuf bourguignon is the most famous. The daubes, estouflades, and terrines usually require no browning, and are much simpler to do. To be technically correct, any recipe describing meat which is browned before it is simmered should be labeled a fricassee; we shall not always make the distinction here because stew has become current usage.

CUTS FOR STEWING
The better the meat, the better the stew. While cheaper and coarser cuts may be used, the following are most recommended. Count on 1 pound of boneless meat, trimmed of fat, for 2 people; 3 if the rest of the menu is large.
	First Choice:		Rump Pot Roast‑Poinsc de Culone, or Aiguillette de Rumsteck
	Other Choices:	Chuck Pot Roast‑Paleron, or Macreuse à Pot‑au‑feu
				Sirloin Tip‑Tranche Grasse
				Top Round‑Tende de Tranche
				Bottom Round‑Gite à la Noix

COOKING TIME
Beef stews take 3 to hours of simmering depending on the quality and tenderness of the meat. If it has been marinated before cooking, it may take less time. Stews may be cooked either in the oven or on top of the stove; the oven is preferable because its heat is more uniform.

PAUPIETTES DE BOEUF
ROULADES DE BOEUF
PETITES BALLOTINES DE BOEUF
[Braised Stuffed Beef Rolls]

Paupiettes are thin slices of beef wrapped around a filling, and braised in wine and stock with herbs and aromatic vegetables. Although they follow the same general pattern as other fricassees of beef, their pork and veal stuffing gives them a special character. Paupiettes can be cooked in advance, and any leftovers may be reheated or may be served cold. Accompany hot paupiettes with rice, risotto, or noodles, and a garniture of sautéed mushrooms, braised onions, and carrots, or with buttered green peas or green beans, broiled tomatoes, and French bread. Serve a good simple red wine such as Beaujolais, Côtes du Rhône, Chianti, or a rosé.
For about 18 paupiettes serving 6 people

1/2 cup finely minced onions
1 Tb butter
A 3‑quart mixing bowl
Cook the onions slowly in butter for to 8 minutes until they are tender but not browned.  Scrape them into the mixing bowl.

6 ounces lean pork ground with 6 ounces lean veal and ounces fresh pork fat, making about 1 1/2 cups ground meat
A wooden spoon
1 clove mashed garlic
1/8 tsp thyme
Pinch of allspice
Big pinch of pepper
1/4 tsp salt
1/4 cup chopped parsley
1 egg
Add all ingredients at the left to the mixing bowl and beat vigorously with a wooden spoon until thoroughly blended.

21/2 lbs. lean beef (top round or chuck) cut into 18 cross‑grain slices 1/4 inch thick and about 3 inches in diameter
Salt and pepper
White string
Flatten each slice of beef to a thickness of 1/8 inch by pounding it between 2 sheets of waxed paper with a wooden mallet or rolling pin. Lay the meat flat on a board and sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Divide the stuffing into 18 portions and place one on the lower third of each slice. Roll the meat around the stuffing to form cylinders about 4 inches long and 1 1/2 inches thick. Secure each with 2 ties of string. Dry in paper towels.

Preheat oven to 325 degrees.

2 to 3 Tb rendered pork fat or good cooking oil
A heavy fireproof casserole about 10 inches in diameter and 2 1/2 to 3 inches deep
1/2 cup sliced carrots
1/2 cup sliced onions
3 Tb flour
1 cup dry white wine or dry white vermouth
1 1/2 cups brown stock or canned beef bouillon
Heat the fat or oil in the casserole until almost smoking. Brown the paupiettes lightly, a few at a time, and remove to a side dish. Lower heat to moderate and brown the vegetables slowly for to minutes, stirring. Then add the flour and brown it slowly for 2 to 3 minutes. Remove casserole from heat and immediately beat in the wine, then the stock or bouillon.

A 4‑inch square of fresh pork rind, bacon rind or salt‑pork rind, simmered 10 minutes in a quart of water, then drained
1 large herb bouquet plus 2 cloves of garlic: 6 parsley sprigs, 1 bay leaf, 1/2 tsp thyme, and the garlic tied together in cheesecloth
Lay rind in the bottom of the casserole. Place the paupiettes over it, and add more stock or bouillon, or water, if necessary, to the liquid in the casserole so pau piettes are barely covered. Add the herb bouquet.

Bulb baster	
Bring to the simmer on top of the stove. Cover the casserole and set in lower third of preheated oven.  Regulate heat so the paupiettes simmer very slowly for 1 hours. Baste them two or three times with the liquid in the casserole.

Remove the paupiettes to a side dish and cut off trussing strings. Strain the cooking liquid into a saucepan and degrease thoroughly. Boil down the sauce if necessary, to concentrate its flavor. You should have 1 1/2 to 2 cups thick enough to coat a spoon lightly. Correct seasoning.

1 Tb prepared mustard of the strong Dijon type blended with 1/4 cup whip‑ping cream
A wire whip
Off heat, beat the mustard and cream into the sauce. Simmer for 1 minute. Rearrange the paupiettes in the casserole or a fireproof serving dish, and pour the sauce over them.
(*) Recipe may he prepared in advance to this point. Film top of sauce with a spoonful of stock or melted butter. When cold, cover and refrigerate.

Parsley sprigs
About to minutes before serving, reheat barely to the simmer on top of the stove. Cover and simmer slowly for 5 minutes or so, basting the paupiettes frequently with the sauce. Serve from the casserole, or arrange the paupiettes on a platter, spoon the sauce over them, and surround with rice or noodles. Decorate with parsley.
VARIATIONS
Prepare, brown, and braise the paupiettes as in the preceding recipe but use the sauce ingredients and techniques outlined either for the boeuf bourguignon, or for the carbonnades à la flamande.